As we each spend more time commuting in
our cars daily, a good audio system in the car is becoming
less of a luxury and more of a necessity. There are days
when, faced with the snarling Malaysian traffic, many of us
would agree that the only thing keeping us sane is the music
swirling within the interior of our vehicles. Whether your
taste ranges from classical to pop, or orchestra to rock, a
good car audio system lets you gain maximum enjoyment from
your favourite tunes.
Many of today's vehicles come with adequate audio systems.
Gone are the days of tinny speakers and cassette players.
But for the discerning listener who is considering an
upgrade, here are some issues that you might want to
consider:
- How much time do you spend in the car? For some
people, a single-disc CD player might be sufficient, but
for continuous, uninterrupted listening, nothing beats a
6-disc or 10-disc CD changer.
- How much money are you prepared to spend on the
system?
- How much vehicle space are you willing to give up to
accommodate the system?
BASIC UNIT
To quote my mechanic when I was contemplating upgrading my
audio system,"Who on earth listens to cassettes these
days?". Consequently, CD players are becoming more of a
norm. Many new models these days come with a standard CD
player instead of cassette. Regardless, a good head unit
will have the following qualities:
- It utilises four channels to drive four speakers.
- Separate bass and treble controls that will allow
you to tailor the sounds to your taste.
- Pre-amp outputs to run amplifiers without
conversion. This will actually deliver a cleaner sound.
- Fully or partially detachable face plates. This is
an oft-overlooked security feature that might actually
deter thieves from breaking into your car to steal your
audio unit.
When selecting a head unit, pay attention to the
frequency response . A reasonable figure would be 30Hz -
15KHz +/-3bD. Obviously, the wider the frequency response,
the better; and the higher the FM sensitivity of the head
unit, the easier it will be for the unit to pull signals in
remote areas.
AMPLIFIERS
The task of the amplifier is simply to amplify the signal
from the head unit before passing it to the speakers. Amps
can be classified into 4 types:
- Class A amp - this utilizes only
one output transistor, which works all the time and
generates the most accurate sounds. However, the heat
generated from this amp requires built-in cooling fans
to be incorporated into the amp design, resulting in big
and expensive amplifiers that might not be required in
an enclosed environment like your car.
- Class B amp - the Class B
amplifiers uses two transistors, one for positive
signals and one for negative signals. Both signals are
then combined which can cause a small amount of
crossover distortion. One of the biggest advantages of
the Class B amplifier is, the use of two transistors
results in less heat being generated, making smaller and
more efficient designs possible.
- Class A-B amp - uses a hybrid of
both Class A and Class B methods. At low volumes, this
amplifier functions in Class A mode. At high volumes,
Class B mode is employed.
- Class D amp- this top of the range
amp samples signals at high rates and reconstructs them
at high volumes. This method generates no heat but
requires a lot of cash. The power required to drive
mid-range to high-frequency speakers are normally around
30 to 50 watts per channel. For subwoofers, 80 - 150
watts is normal. Ideally, power output should be matched
to what it will be used for and the type of speakers
that the amplifier will be driving.
Each possible location to house the amplifier comes with
its own pros and cons:
- Glove compartment
Pros:
. Very close to power source
Cons:
. Wasted glove compartment space
- Under the front seat
Pros:
. Best security
. Shorter power wiring required (because the amplifier
is located nearer to the battery)
. Minimal voltage drop
Cons:
. Generates higher temperature because there is limited
airflow under the seat
. You will have wires running under the carpet
. Car seat must be removed for installation
- Boot
Pros:
. Good security
. Better ventilation (as compared to under the seat)
. Easy installation
Cons:
. Might sustain damage as heavy things are loaded and
unloaded into the car
. Possible higher loss of power due to wire resistance
caused by the need for longer RCA wires
You can compare amplifiers by using the RMS power rating
(use the same parameters, e.g. ohms rating). Most amplifiers
are at least 4-ohm stable, meaning that the amplifiers can
continuously handle power loads of 4 ohms per channel.
4-channel amplifiers are obviously a better choice than
2-channel amplifiers. The reason is, a 4-channel amplifier
can drive four speakers and leave room for future expansion.
When buying amplifiers, don't be misled by the labels. In
most cases, the more powerful the amplifier is, the bigger
its heatsink will be to dissipate the heat generated.
However, there are cases where manufacturers build bigger
heatsinks than is necessary to give an illusion of power to
the amplifier.
SUBWOOFERS
For rock fans, subwoofers are a necessity to generate that
thumping earth-shaking bass that is the mainstay of the
genre. Subwoofers demands one and a half times more power
from the amplifier. Physically, a subwoofer can range from
20cm to 40cm in size. Generally, the rule of thumb is, the
bigger the subwoofer, the deeper and louder the bass output.
Unfortunately, this means that more space is required.
All speakers produce front and rear waves that disperse
differently according to the size of the speakers. In the
case of subwoofers, the dispersion pattern is so huge that
the front and back waves must be separated. Hence, the need
for enclosures. There are essentially 3 different types of
enclosures:
- Free-air subwoofer - this type is
either mounted under the rear deck and discharging
upwards, or mounted behind the back seat and hammers
forward.
Pros:
. Saves space
Cons:
. Needs more power and may not sound as good
- Ported box - essentially, a box
with a port to release air. Produces louder sounds but
must be built according to the manufacturer
specifications or you might end up with a 'muddy'
sounding subwoofer.
- Sealed box - this is the most
common type of enclosure. Gives out a good tight bass,
but like the ported box, the size must be in accordance
to manufacturer specifications.
SPEAKERS
High-end speakers are able to reproduce exceptional sound
and strong musical imaging. Good speakers are made of strong
magnets and heavy-duty coils; designed to handle high volume
better than the cheaper paper cones of inferior brands.
Speakers come in a variety of sizes, each designed to
produce sound in a certain frequency range:
- Coaxial speakers - a collection of
two speakers in the same housing with a simple
crossover. One plays high while the other plays the
mid-bass frequencies. This system, however, lacks
flexibility.
- Separates - consists of a tweeter
and subwoofer and usually comes with crossover network.
Separates are more expensive but are capable of
producing better sounds.
Round speakers are also better than oval ones as they are
more rigid and less likely to distort at high frequencies.
Most oval speakers are mainly used when space is a
constraint. It is also advisable to avoid speakers with
magnets that are too heavy. The average amplifier will have
a lot of trouble driving these types of speakers.
When looking at the technical specifications for speakers,
it is generally advisable to aim for higher RMS power,
frequency response and sensitivity figures. 30 to 50 watts
are usually sufficient for the front and rear speakers but
subwoofers are going to need 100 to 150 watts each. Other
speaker terminologies:
- Input sensitivity - this refers to
sound pressure level and how loud the speaker will play
given certain input.
- Frequency response - refers to the
range of frequencies that the speaker can reproduce
within a power range.
- Nominal handling power - refers to
the continuous power handling capability of the
speakers.
- Peak power handling - maximum level
of power that the speakers can accommodate.
JUDGING AUDIO SYSTEMS
Your ears are still your best judge. Bring along a favourite
CD to test the speakers.
STEP 1
Begin with light and soft music (perhaps an instrument
solo). This will help to detect any system noise.
STEP 2
Switch to something more complicated. Listen to make sure
that the output does not sound hazy.
STEP 3
Finally, listen to something familiar and see how faithfully
the sounds are being reproduced.